where to go in lisbon via au pays des merveilles

This is it, my ultimate guide to Lisbon!  (Finally, I’ve been back for over half a year from my five month erasmus in this wonderful city…) Every tip links back to the post(s) I orginally wrote about it or their website if I didn’t. I also added some places that I didn’t photograph, just to make sure you don’t miss out on anything.    If you’re wondering how a semi-local twenty-something spends her time in Lisbon, this is it!

(Oh and I appologise for my awful handwriting: I got myself a pen tablet to battle rsi and to save myself time from always writing things out on paper and scanning them, but obviously I still need some practice.  Hopefully soon you won’t be able to notice the difference between my handwriting on paper and with the tablet! )


where to get some culture in lisbon via au pays des merveilles

Recommended neighbourhood: Alfama, Belém, Oriente

  1. Centro cultural de Belém for the collection of modern art and the beautiful building.
  2. Igreja do Carmo for the church’s ruins that leave you speechless.
  3. Cristo Rei for the view you get from underneath this statue of Jesus.
  4. Expo 98 for the well known architecture of Alvaro Siza and Santiago Calatrava.
  5. Belém for the torre de Belém, the monastery and the famous pasteis de Belém.
  6. Castelo de Sao Jorge for the view over the city, the peacocks that live here and the musicians playing underneath the treas in these old ruins.
  7. Elevador de santa Justa, although I recommand to just walk on the bridge towards the elevator when you come from Largo do Carmo to enjoy the view and not pay for the ride down.  It’s a tourist trap!
  8. Eléctrico 28, or a walk around the old part of the city to see the beautiful facades, the colorful tiles and the amazing street art.
  9. Mude for the fashion and design collections that are displayed in this museum.


where to eat and drink in lisbon via au pays des merveilles

Recommended neighbourhood: Bairro Alto, but I prefer Bica, which is less crowded with tourists.

  1. Café Tati for a cup of coffee with free wifi, a small meal or a glass of wine and a jazz concert.
  2. Primeiro Andar for the livingroom like interior and the beautiful people.
  3. Cinema la em baixo for a vegetarian diner and a movie on tuesday nights and for 2 euro pizza (!!!) on sunday nights.
  4. LOSTin Lisbon for the amazing terrace with the great view over the city.
  5. Casa independente for the wonderful terrace and the beautiful crowd.
  6. Pois café for the stunning interior and the austrian menu.  (And if your waitress is an Austrian girl named Lisa, give her a big hug from me!)
  7. Flower Power for an original meal in a flower filled interior.
  8. Pensao Amor for the amazing interior (including a fur wall), the fact that this used to be a brothel, the sex shop and the hair dresser you can find here.  Make sure to come here at night for some dancing too!
  9. Cruzes Credo for yummie tostas.
  10. Bacalhoero for live music, dj sets, vegi meals and film nights.
  11. Associaçao loucos & Sonhadores for conversations about life accompanied by free pop corn.  This place is hard to find and only known by the locals, so consider this a golden tip!
  12. Quintal for feeling like you’re no longer in the city (that’s what a rooftop full of green, strawbales, chickens and rabbits does to you).  Some of my friends are working here so needless to say the people behind the bar are lots of fun!
  13. Quero te no Cais for most fun bar owner of Lisbon (with the best mustache of the whole city, I have to add) and the free wifi – working on my thesis in this tiny bar was never boring.
  14. Sol e Pesca for the interior that is completely devoted to sardines.
  15. O Pai Tirano for late night conversations with a glass of beer.  The interior is based on a movie that was filmed in this neighbourhood in the fourties.
  16. Café do Monte for warming up after seeing the sunset at the miradouro da senhora do monte.
  17. Elevador Amarelo for afterwork drinks with the locals in an original vintage interior.
  18. Tartine for brunch: it’s a bit expensive in comparison to regular portuguese prices, but the delicious pastries totally make up for that.


where to chill in lisbon via au pays des merveilles

  1. LX factory for the original shops, the beautiful cafés, the market that take place on sundays and the amazing location on an old industrial site.  Oh and keep an eye out on their agenda, the parties there are pretty legendary.
  2. Jardim da Estrela for lounging around in the parc.
  3. The ruins of Almada on the other side of the Tejo, with the most beautiful view on Lisbon.
  4. Tapada das Necessidades for the abandoned greenhouse you find in this parc
  5. Miradouro de Santa Catarina, also known as Adamastor, for the great atmosphere that is best enjoyed with a beer.  (Tip: order uma litrosa e copos (one liter of beer with plastic cups) at the kiosk for only 2 euros!)
  6. Miradouro da Senhora do Monte for the best view over the city.  Come here during sunset and bring a bottle of wine and a picnick!
  7. Fundaçao Calouste Gulbenkian for the beautiful parc, the art library and the museum.


where to dance in lisbon via au pays des merveilles

Recommended neigbourhood: Cais do Sodre, Bairro Alto, Bica

  1. Chapito for the live african music on sunday nights, the amazing building that is an old women’s prison and the view over the city.
  2. Out Jazz for summer sundays spent picnicking in a lisbon parc accompanied by live jazz music, followed by a dance party with great dj’s.
  3. LEFT for dancing on tables until early in the morning.
  4. Incognito for indie music and gin tonics.
  5. Musicbox for really good music (Gold Panda, Breach, Jazzanova,…) that’s probably a little less famous than what you get at Lux, but also more affordable.  Keep an eye on their agenda!
  6. Bicarte for dancing next to exhibitions of local artists.
  7. Galeria Zé dos Bois for art exhibitions and dance parties.  Especially the LGBT parties by Rabbit Hole here are insane, don’t miss it!
  8. Purex for the lesbians among us, but everybody is welcome here.
  9. Lounge for upcoming talents and more well known names, I still regret I didn’t manage to get in when xxyyxx was playing here and that I didn’t know this place when Tom Barman was one of the dj’s… Belgium represent!
  10. Lux for the best dj’s and the most well known dance floor of Portugal.
  11. Bar da velha senhora for the best music in Cais do Sodre.


where to see the sea via au pays des merveilles

  1. Costa da Caparica for surfing (or looking at the surfer boys…)
  2. Carcavelos to stay close to the city.
  3. Praia Guincho for the wild waves that are perfect for surfing and the rocks surrounding this beach


shop 2

Recommended neighbourhood: Chiado, Baixa, Bairro Alto

  1. Feira da Ladra for the vintage treasures you can find on this market.
  2. Fabrica Features for design and fun gifts
  3. Zazou for original portuguese products and a cup of coffee.
  4. A vida portuguesa, for authentic portuguese products in a beautiful shop.  There’s also one in Porto that looks like this.
  5. Casa tita for quirkie gifts.
  6. Feira das Almas, a monthly market with handmade and vintage goodies.
  7. Ler Devagar, an amazing book shop slash library slash café located in LX factory.
  8. A Outra Face da Lua, for their great selection of vintage (although it’s not exactly cheap) and a cup of coffee or a light meal afterwards.


where to sleep in lisbon via au pays des merveilles

  1. Oasis backpackers hostel, without a doubt.  This is where I spent my first two weeks in Lisbon, when I didn’t have an apartement yet and this is also where I made my first friends.  The food is amazing (one of their cooks was one of this season’s finalists of  The great British Bake Off, a tv show on baking) but the best part is the staff, who make everyone feel at home right from day one and who I’m still in contact with one year later.  I regularly passed by here for a drink, even when I wasn’t staying here anymore and I would always run in to familiar faces because a lot of guests find it hard to leave this place.  Oh and they sure know how to party!

all photos by me

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  1. How to have a lovely day

    Zalig overzicht! Ik ga hopelijk volgende zomer naar Portugal, we hebben alleszins met enkele vriendinnen al gesproken over een roadtrip. Moest het er van komen, dan zal ik dit lijstje zéker nog eens opzoeken!

  2. Hanne M

    ik vind dat juist zalig dat dat handgeschreven is
    en zo krijg ik echt al goesting om terug op reis te gaan
    (of om op erasmus te gaan!)

  3. Loes

    Ah wat een fijne plekjes.
    Ik hoop in de lente er naar toe te gaan om van de eerste zonnestralen te genieten omdat de winter hier in Bergen al een maand geleden is begonnen en nog heel erg lang duurt voordat het in Nederland weer warm wordt..
    Als ik ga, dan zeker nog even door naar jou tips kijken. Het ziet er fantastisch uit!

  4. Laurein H (@LAUREIN)

    Deze ga ik bij mijn favorietjes zetten! Wel ik vind juist dat je wel leuk schrijft met de tablet, inderdaad duizend keer handiger dan old school scannen.. Ik ga mijzelf ook een app zoeken en tabletpen voor ipad aanschaffen, niet dat ik een mooi handschrift heb ;)

  5. Marloes Pieper

    Ah suuuuuuuuuuuuupervet dit! Ik heb hier twee hele goede vrienden gemaakt, een stel, ze komen uit Lissabon dus die ga ik vast een keertje bezoek en je guide ZEKER gebruiken :)

  6. Cleo

    Dikke bedankt voor deze fijne oplijsting Hannelore! Ik heb hem opgeslagen voor wanneer ik nog eens naar Lissabon trek, wat met deze tips alleen maar een aantrekkelijker idee wordt :-)

  7. Shifra Jumelet

    Oeooe, leuke tips! Ik heb al zoveel steden in Europa gezien, maar Lissabon ontbreekt nog steeds. Ik moet echt maar eens een keertje gaan zo te zien:)

  8. Maya

    Deze ging direct op pinterest! Zo kan ik hem rap terug vinden als ik naar Lissabon ga, moet echt die stad dringend eens bezoeken lijkt mij. En ik vind mijn handschrift nog altijd lelijk op een tablet haha, kan het maar niet wennen :p

  9. Ana Reis

    Love 5 – Miradouro de Santa Catarina, also known as Adamastor, for the great atmosphere that is best enjoyed with a *bear* . ??? shouldn’t it be a beer? LOL ;)

  10. jozhe

    It´s a shame that Mãe d´Água, Jardim das Amoreiras, never figures anywhere as culture or chilling place.

  11. Julia

    Nice picks! but it’s missing the HotClub! the oldest jazz club in Europe! It’s located in Praça da Alegria, near the famous Avenida da Liberdade.

  12. Mark

    You must have been at Oasis Hostel around the same time I was, as I recognize the Aussie playing the guitar and Evan the staff member who went to college in my hometown halfway around the world.

  13. Pedro Vieira

    AMAZING list! Lisbon is full of hidden gems which you’ll hardly find if you don’t have local connections. If you’re visiting Lisbon and Portugal, I recommend using services like http://www.WiserGo.com which connects you with Portuguese experts, who can help you decide what do to, book everything and provide customer support while you’re in Portugal. Since they are local agents, they know the ins-and-outs of everything and you get to experience the country as a local! Service is free and the testimonials in their homepage are pretty positive.

  14. Catarina

    Being born and raised in Lisbon I think your choices are amazing!

    I would only add Champalimaud foundation near the riverside as a great place to walk, chill, enjoy the view, photograph or simply admire the sunset. It is perfect!

  15. Ana Saragoça

    Congratulations! Your guide is the best to my city I’ve ever seen. You clearly know Lisboa very well, in some cases better than myself, and I live here :-) Thank you for sharing these valuable tips about my beautiful city. I wish you all the best.

  16. Lisbonforever

    Jeases, a LOT of great tips here! Please feel free to post on Lisbonforever as well! We are a start up who offers companies and privat persons to share their Lisbon through us with the World.

    Have a great day!


  17. PaoloDiogo

    Great guide, I’ve spent almost one year and half in Lisbon (Erasmus and than internship and than girlfriend…), and I do agree with all your choices, something is still missing but this means that Lisbon has so many hidden gems to visit… Are you dutch?
    Anyway pictures and also the blog lay-out are great… Parabens

    • Hannelore

      Thank you! Of course there are still things missing, Lisbon has so many things to offer and there’s always new places to discover! I’m from Belgium by the way :)

  18. kurrevasa

    Hello, thanks. What is the easiest way to go to the Christo Ray. We are sataying hotel Vila Gale Operaa.

    • Hannelore

      You can take the boat at cais do sodre to the other side of the Tejo, but I’m sure you can ask the staff of your hotel and they’d be happy to show you how to get there!

  19. Maria Ines Pires

    I’m from Lisbon and I can say this a very very very complete overview of the city, agreed with everything mentioned on this post. You made me miss even more my beautiful Lisbon!

    • Hannelore

      Thank you, that means a lot! I miss it too, can’t wait to go back to revisit all my favorite places and discover new ones :)

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